VIRGINIA BLUEBELLS (Mertensia pulmonarioides, syn. M. virginica)
Our guest garden writer this week is Amy Ziffer. She is a garden designer, Master Gardener, author, lecturer, and blogger. Amy specializes in gardening in the Northeast, specifically New England and New York. Amy, known as the Shady Lady, has experience and advice for gardeners from the inland mountains to the sandy coastlines of the Northeast U.S.
Northeastern gardeners are not all that can benefit from Amy’s expertise. In her article here, she praises the beauty of our east coast native Virginia Bluebells. These bluebells will grow in many cool (USDA Zones 3-8) to hot gardens throughout the country.
In the hotter climates, try Mertensia echioides, suitable for rock gardens in USDA Zones 6-9. Look for these native plants in your region of the country: Prairie bluebells(Mertensialanceolata) in the prairie states; and oblongleaf bluebells(Mertensiaoblongifolia) in the far western states, including much of California. Texas, according to USDA mapping, appears to be the only state that does not have a native bluebell.
Virginia bluebells (Mertensia virginica) are nothing less than the royalty of spring ephemerals. Large, showy, and colorful, they put on one of the very best spectacles of any spring blooming plant, with all the rich costuming you’d expect in the court of a queen.
Virginia bluebells break ground very early in spring. Their tightly furled leaves look like tiny burgundy cabbages when they first emerge, but as they grow, they quickly morph into medium green, fleshy oblongs that resemble the leafy green vegetable sorrel. Seemingly, in no time they produce profuse clusters of dangling blue bell-shaped flowers on 18” stems, blooming for several weeks in May. (They also come in a white-flowered form that is uncommon but possible to find.)
Once flowering ceases, and almost before you have time to notice, the plants close up shop. Their leaves yellow rapidly, and they go completely dormant by mid June. They’ll spend the remainder of the year as inscrutable, seemingly dead, but really just dormant roots nestled just below the soil surface. Incredibly, their entire aboveground life cycle is barely two months long.
The sheer rapidity of their growth and “demise” along with their large size and showiness make Virginia bluebells very border friendly. Their leaves do not need to hang around the garden for months to store enough energy to ensure flowering the following year. They put on their spectacular display and then vanisha gardener’s dream!
Virginia bluebells are excellent interplanted with other blue-flowering plants such as perennial woodland phlox (Phlox divaricata). This phlox flowers just as the bluebells fade, so the segue from one to the other is seamless, and because the phlox spreads into a non-competitive groundcover, the bluebells will continue to arise through the mat of phlox foliage year after year. Biennial forget-me-not (Myosotis sylvatica) also makes a great companion.
Virginia bluebells’ sky blue flowers are also an effective counterpoint to yellow daffodils. Gardeners with borders in both sun and shade can take best advantage of this artful duo, planting the sunny areas with clumps of daffodils and the shady ones with masses of bluebells. The result will be breathtaking!
Natural companions are old-fashioned bleeding heart, whose brilliant pink or clean white flowers reach their peak simultaneously with those of Virginia bluebells, although the latter plant will go dormant months before the former. If you try this combination, use hostas, ferns or other late-emerging plants to fill in the areas occupied by the bluebells in May.
Virginia bluebells spread readily by seed, moving outward from an original planting at a speed of a foot or two a year. In autumn, be careful working in the parts of your garden where bluebells are established, since it is so easy to dig into and accidentally destroy dormant roots at that time of year.
Nurseries often stock Virginia bluebells in April and early May since they’re one of the few plants that can be sold in full bloom at such a chilly time of year.
Sun/Shade needs: Half sun to moderately deep shade; full sun with adequate moisture. Hardiness: Zone 3 Size: 12-18” tall; 8” wide Native status: Native to most of eastern North America, but not all of New England
Whether you're nurturing your first tomato plants or consider yourself a garden pro, plant disease can hit unexpectedly. The most common garden offender is fungal disease. Michigan State University Extension confirms that fungal pathogens are behind 85 percent of all plant disease.
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