GROWING ORCHIDS

Orchids were the darlings of the Victorian era
growers.� Over one hundred years ago,
crazed collectors could not get enough of these new, elegant, tropical
blooms.� The large exotic blossoms of the
Cattleya orchid have been especially
prized through the years, as the orchid of choice for those special corsage
giving and receiving occasions.�
These days, breeding has made the plants much
smaller and more windowsill friendly.� This
selecting and hybridizing makes it possible for the modern day gardener to grow
orchids on windowsills.� Orchids have
entered the mainstream of flower culture.�
These alluring plants now grow as easily as African violets.�
Most tropical orchids are epiphytes, air plants
that cling to trees in their steamy home ranges.� Orchids only use trees for support.� The orchids are not parasites, but derive
their nutrients from the rainwater, air, and debris that filter down through
the leafy branch-tops of their host trees in their natural habitat.� Because of this growing pattern, they are grown
at home in tree bark specially formulated for orchids; not in soil.�
Some cling to open wooden baskets or slabs of
bark.� You might find some orchids for
sale growing in a peat-based media.� Since
peat holds water, this can lead to overwatering by an amateur grower.� Water needs to flow through the pot.� Roots cannot stand to be kept wet.� They rot.�
So-called orchid bark is still the best medium for most orchids.� Healthy orchid roots are bright white and
often climb out of the pot.� This is
normal.� If the whole plant starts to go
over the edge, then it's time to transplant to a larger pot.
The bark mix also degrades over time, creating a
problem with drainage.� It breaks down
into soil-like compost, compacting and holding too much water.� Most orchids need repotting every couple of
years; two to three years is the recommended length of time between potting.
Orchids also require a high humidity environment,
higher than found inside most homes.� To
add moisture to the air, add a humidifier to the growing area. �Or, you can mist the plants every day. �You can also supply extra humidity by setting
the pots of orchids on gravel in plastic or glass saucers.� Keep water in the gravel but below the level
of the pot bottom.� Water should not
touch the pots. �As the water evaporates
from below, it envelopes the orchids with the humidity these plants love.
Fertilization is important.� There is very little nutrient value in
bark.� A 20-20-20 water-soluble
fertilizer is adequate.� Look for one especially
formulated for orchids, containing the micronutrients they need.
The rule of thumb is to feed weakly, weekly.� They should be fed while they are growing,
which varies with the plant.� A
timed-release fertilizer is not
recommended because orchids need to have a rest period.� Withhold fertilizer when growth stops.� Do let them rest.
Orchid plants benefit from a summer vacation
outdoors.� They can be hung from tree
limbs.� Putting them directly into
sunlight would severely burn the foliage.�
The Cattleyas and Dendrobiums can move into filtered sun
as they acclimate to the outdoors.� The Phalaenopses do just fine in more shade.� Shade tolerance is one of the reasons they do
so well inside homes.�
Don�t put orchids outdoors until the night
temperatures outside are above 50 degrees F.�
They can take some temperatures a little lower than that, but that seems
to be the safest temperature.�
If your garden is wildlife friendly, insect eating
birds will supply a never-ending insect patrol, searching through the bark,
often throwing it on the ground.� Consequently,
you might need to add more bark when the plants move back indoors, but you can
do away with insecticides. �In fact,
there are not many insects or diseases that strike orchids, another reason for
growing them.�
Move the orchids back inside when the nighttime
temperatures are dropping to fifty again.�
Morning sunshine, humidity, and cool indoor temperatures are all that�s needed
to keep the plants happy and blooming in the windows indoors.� Orchids enjoy temperature fluctuations
between daytime and nighttime.� This
actually boosts the bloom.
In order to keep all of the flowers facing
forward, position them facing the window light until all of the buds open.� If you turn the plant, then your buds will
turn back toward the light.� You�ll have
some buds going to the left and some going to the right. �You really want Phalaenopsis and Dendrobium
blossoms falling in rows and the other orchid flowers all facing forward.� When the last bud opens, then it is safe to
turn or move the plant away from the light.

A Phalaenopsis
(commonly called a Moth Orchid) would be the orchid to take home first.� They are so easy, they can even be purchased
in super markets and home improvement stores. �Cattleyas,
the corsage orchids, are not too difficult to grow. �The biggest difficulty is getting enough winter
sunlight so that they will set buds and bloom.�
A blue Ascocendra,
�Princess Misaka� (a Vanda hybrid)
might have been the first blue orchid. �It
hangs out in an open wooden basket with no potting medium at all.� To water it, carry it to the sink once a
week, immerse it, and let it soak for twenty minutes.
Another unusual favorite is a Brassia, a spider orchid.�
One called �Witch Doctor� throws out long spikes with pale, spotted,
spidery shaped flowers along the stem.� Oncidiums hold unusual small yellow and
brown flowers on wiry stems.� The
commonly called Dancing Lady only needs to be seen to understand the name.
Many enthusiasts find they cannot stop with just
one plant. �One hundred years ago, this
was called Orchid Mania.� Today, orchids
offer a challenging, rewarding, engrossing grower hobby.� Got an empty windowsill?
Orchids can be purchased by mail order from Carter
and Holmes orchids in Newberry, South Carolina:�
http://www.carterandholmes.com/