We return to the beautiful
Biltmore Estate in Asheville, N.C.
Bruce Ballard, the Gardens Manager provides helpful hints
your Roses flowering throughout the remainder of the season.
first flowering of the season has ended we're going to cut
back to help it establish new growth. Go down the stem to
that has at least 5 leaflets. Cut on an outward facing bud,
so that the
new growth comes up on the outside of the flower itself.
Remove as much of the old flowers as possible throughout
the bed of Roses. Bruce shows us a cluster of Regosa Rose.
He removes the entire cluster allowing the new cluster and
growth behind the original cluster to thrive. Bruce addresses
Climbing Roses. At the base of the plant he notices aging
canes, these need to be removed so the newer canes can take
their place. Again, at the base of the plant find an outward
facing bud and remove to that point so the cane grows out.
The wall behind will support the new cane and he'll train
it to grow onto a wire or the wall itself. Climbers don't
receive a harsh cut back in winter like Hybrid Teas or Grandifloras.
Maintain the shape, which is a fan. When irrigating Roses,
a drip system is preferable. Overhead watering
can cause disease and fungus. Their drip system wraps around
each plant with an emitter at the base of each plant. They
water at least twice a week. Each watering provides approximately
2 gallons per hour or about 4 gallons per week or one to
one and a half inches of water per plant each week. Of course
rainfall must be taken into consideration. To measure output
of your system, put the emitter on top of a cup or rain
gauge, let it run for an hour and measure the water.
Fertilization is one of the most important things you can
do for your
Roses. Bruce uses 3 different ingredients, Cotton seed Meal,
Phosphorous. He supplements these with a liquid fertilizer
approximately 3 times per year.
are becoming increasingly popular in America. They are rapid
growers and if space is limited, like on patios, you can
garden up, not
out. We see Clerodenron and Aristolocia vines that have
three feet in a week or so. In the greenhouse at Biltmore
stay inside until after the frost date, normally May 15th.
rapidly when outside in the summer and vines like Pandoria
will maintain a lot of flowers throughout the summer, right
up to first frost. Before that they trim it back to a manageable
size and take it inside. We view Alistorlocia Gigantica,
it has a big, beautiful bloom. To force the bloom they fertilize
with a blossom booster fertilizer one week then and alternate
the next week with a 20-20-20 fertilizer. Also they use
a time release fertilizer that lasts throughout the season.
They train the vines, like Clerodendron Speciosum, using
a sisal rope.
You could use nylon twine, an arbor or trellis or anything
to support the eventual weight. Some species grow clockwise,
counterclockwise. Gently wrap the vine around the support
to get it
started and it will eventually cover an area. Passiflora
Vitofolia is a
great tropical vine, a rampant grower and will have beautiful
blossoms. A Hybrid called Incense will have blue flowers.
hundreds of Passiflora hybrids, all have different leaf
forms, petal forms, colors, even the fruits are different.
Many are edible.
Many of the vines at Biltmore are tropical, thus you won't
them at your home, but they are worth viewing. Cissus Discolor
velour leaves with a maroon underside and is a rapid grower.
with Tendrils, which are adapted leaf petioles.
Parker Andes introduces us to Rudbeckia, Autumn Sun. It
is a cone flower and will grow to seven feet tall. It is
covered with yellow blooms in July and August, sometimes
into September. What typically happens is that a thunderstorm
with a lot of wind will knock this beautiful plant
over. Parker shows us how to stake this and other large
multiple beds of plants. One method uses bamboo, which is
easily hidden in the plants, he then creates a cage with
string between the bamboo sticks. Since the plant is actively
growing in mid June he makes the stakes a little taller
than the plants, they will grow to the height by
mid July. He uses five bamboo stakes around the plant, the
number would vary depending on the plant size. Create a
web inside the plant and around the bamboo stakes. As you
go around the stakes leave the string rather loose but tie
it off at each stake. That way if one string were to break,
others would hold. In staking, the plant shouldn't be held
straight up. Then go around the outside of the plant with
very loose strips. This will be just enough to catch the
plant when the wind blows. Because this plant is tall, Parker
creates this web on several levels. He has created a bunch
of pie shaped sections. This technique works well for the
Lily Stargazer. It can grow to 4-5 feet tall and will get
floppy, so you'll use smaller stakes and will need to hide
the stakes in the flowers. But this technique gives them
Another staking method is called Peasing, as in English
Peas. Use a
twiggy branch from last year, Parker likes Budelia. Trim
branch, then push the branches into the ground. Around a
Abelia, cut the branch so they won't be seen. They help
hold up the
plant, yet nobody sees the twigs holding the plant.
Biltmore Estate was designed by Frederick Law Olmstead,
the person that designed Central Park in New York City.
Mr. Olmstead wanted green, variegated color all year long.
Thus he demanded that gardeners plant Ivy, in beds and on
Deciduous trees. The Ivy competes with the trees for nutrients
and water. As the Ivy gets to the crown of the tree it will
compete for sunlight. At Biltmore, they manage and maintain
the Ivy and the tree. Because of historical reasons, Biltmore
leaves the Ivy in the trees and it is beautiful, but not
something your would want to try at home.
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