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Past Shows:

Show #18
This week we visit Barnsley Gardens in Adairsville, Georgia.
Robert Stoney is their resident horticulturist.
We're in
the middle of summer. Plants, like summer annuals, that
love the heat find this an ideal time. They're thriving
and growing rapidly, the days are long, with 8-9 hours of
sunlight per day. Robert likes the mornings best because
it's cool, he tries to get his arduous tasks out of the
way in the AM. If he must work in the afternoons he tries
to protect himself from the sun and addresses less strenuous
tasks like pruning.
Robert likes Hydrangeas because they offer a wide range
of colors and shape, they're easy to care for, they tolerate
a wide range of soil conditions and because their blooms
are long lasting. They like shade or partial shade and are
happy in the poorest of soils. This is a plant that thrives
in the south, east and in parts of the west. There are a
wide variety of these plants that allow us to have blooms
early in the spring into the middle of the summer.
Broadly speaking there are two varieties of Hydrangeas developed
from a species called Hydrangea Arborescence, which is a
native all the way up the east coast. One variety is very
hardy, will tolerate frost and it flowers on new wood. In
other words if you get a late frost all the potential blooms
won't be killed. The second variety doesn't tolerate a late
frost, its' blooms would be lost if subjected to a late
frost. This variety is normally associated with the big,
showy, Mop Head and Lace Cap varieties. They're not hard
to grow, just susceptible to late frost. They like cool,
damp conditions and are perfect in the south and in the
west in places like Oregon and Washington. The late frost
would kill the growth that set the flower buds the previous
year.
You can change the color of Hydrangeas. Aluminum in the
soil is taken up by the plant and changes it from pink to
blue. The PH or acidity of the soil stops the aluminum from
being absorbed. If you want a rich blue you will need acid
conditions, remember - blue/acid, pink/alkaline. You may
have an acidic condition if under an eve of a house, the
rainfall may be enough to keep the soil acidic. Products
like Muracid or Gypsum will acidify the soil causing blue
blooms. To ensure a plant has lush, green foliage, an acidifying
liquid fertilizer would be great. This will accomplish two
things at once, it feeds the plant and corrects the PH.
We look at a Lace Cap Hydrangea, which is a delicate looking
flower, it looks like a lace cap. It has large showy flowers
around the outside, which are sterile. In the middle it
has smaller, fertile, blue flowers which will set seed.
The outer flowers can range from white to blue and they
may fade back to pink as they age. As with all Hydrangeas
you can cut the bloom at any stage during its' growth, strip
off the leaves and hang it up and let it dry. It will stay
beautiful looking and ornamental through Christmas. It may
not keep its' blue color but if you cut it when it's cream
or green it will retain that color for some time.
Annabelle Hydrangea has a light green bloom. It starts off
green then changes to bright white or creamy white, then
back to a lovely chartreuse green. It has three different
looks while blooming. It flowers on this year's wood, so
it's not susceptible to late frost because it produces flowers
from the base regardless of frost.
To prune Hydrangeas if you wait until after flowering, you'll
get the benefit of those flowers. You can then prune it
to the ground.
One of the challenges in having a beautiful garden is keeping
the weeds at bay. Weeds have been described as a thoroughly
successful plant or a plant out of place. We call them weeds
because they are so pernicious, regardless of what you do
to them they come back. There are many strategies for keeping
them under control - you can hand pick them, for example.
There is a product that will keep weeds at bay for up to
a year. You must be careful with this product, don't put
it anywhere near growing plants, but in roadways, sidewalks
and pebble paths where we don't want anything growing. For
this purpose, this is a wonderful product. It has a fast
acting ingredient, glyfosate and a long lasting product
that stays in the soil for up to 12 months. Mix a quart
of the product with a gallon of water, and it will treat
about 75 square feet of space. First wet the surface to
be treated, that allows the product to move into the ground,
then apply the product, then several days later come back
and water again. This allows the product to move into the
ground and keeps weeds at bay for up to one year. It's fantastic
for walkways, just make sure that where it's applied you're
at least twice the distance from the trunk to the drip line
or damage could occur. It's a low maintenance way to keep
weeds out of your garden and off your pathways.
Hydrangeas come in every shape and form. Hydrangea Arborescence,
Grandifloria is more irregular, more informal. Breeders
have worked to improve the size of the flower and it is
much larger than native varieties. In its native form the
leaves would be the same but the flowers would be much smaller.
It is a robust flower. It will flower in very deep shade,
in shade so deep it would be difficult to take a picture.
This particular Hydrangea bloom is a little yellow, probably
caused by too much sun or it may be hungry. It could probably
use a little nitrogen.
Hydrangeas propagate easily from cuttings. This time of
year the wood is soft, in other words it is just turning
from fresh green growth to wood. If you can find a leader,
a shoot without a flower head, that is preferable. A terminal
bud is better than a lateral bud. Cut it and place it in
a free draining, premium potting soil. Place it down the
edge of the pot, Robert finds cuttings root better between
the compost and the pot. It isn't necessary to scrape the
bark off the stem. Some people use a rooting powder, that
is not necessary. Cover the pot and cutting with a clear
plastic bag, keep it in the shade and out of the sun, keep
it moist and within about 8-10 weeks roots should be growing.
The Dooley Hydrangea is named after the coach of the Univ.
of Georgia football team. It is a new plant and produces
"mop-head" flowers from chutes originating all
the way down the stem. If it does get hit by late frost,
the leader will be replaced by laterals coming from the
base and it will produce a flower that season. It is a very
frost resistant, frost proof "Mop Head" Hydrangea
and we haven't had one of those before.
Georgia Raimondi this week visits with John Lloyd, a very
talented garden designer. John shows us his potting shed
in his charming garden. It is unusual, special and blends
in with the surroundings. John needed a place, in winter,
that could hold plants, pots and planters that decorate
the garden during the summer. It is multi functional, it's
a quasi potting shed, green house. They collect seeds during
the summer, store them and they then have a place for them
to germinate during the winter months. The potting shed
is heated so it is ideal for that purpose. He starts seeds
in here and is able to keep some plants going during the
winter. He brings Orchids from inside the house when they've
expired, when new blooms are ready the plant is moved back
into the house. There is constant movement of plant material
from the garden and home into the shed, then back out. The
potting shed is integrated into the environment and inviting.
Inside John keeps seed trays and developing and over wintering
plants. It is an economical way to start and develop plants.
It is a fun place, yet functional. John keeps his tools
inside, making it possible to organize them and know where
everything is located. As well it is a storage area for
peat moss, potting soil, sprayers and fertilizers. It all
is contained in this building.
Green is a restful color in your garden. A great way to
add green to your garden is with evergreen shrubs. One of
Robert's favorites is Boxwood. They have some of the richest
green foliage known. English Boxwood is slightly different
than American Boxwood, it is a lighter green and more slow
growing. These plants are 160 years old, they were put in
when the garden was originally laid out. Robert rescued
these plants, the garden was abandoned for 40-50 years and
they grew wild, into a sizable plant that completely filled
the paths. Robert then had to train them and bring them
back to the shape they were intended, which was/is about
knee high so one can enjoy the beds and borders. This is
referred to as a Partier. Most people when trimming evergreens
want to take their shears and give them a haircut, just
take it right off the top. That is incorrect. This plant
conserves moisture in its leaves. The leaves are glossy,
even waxy, when you cut off the leaf you take its water
supply. Shearing also encourages the plant to produce a
skin of leaves on the outside and nothing down deep in the
plant. To encourage leafing deep down in the plant use a
hand pruner, go into the plant and break off taller pieces,
down deep. By choosing the taller pieces you end up shaping
the plant but you are creating a lot of little holes, skylights
if you like. This encourages leafing way down in the plant
which will produce a much healthier plant. When left untrimmed
the plant is so humid inside that the plant thinks it is
in moist soil and it puts out roots called advantageous
roots. These little roots can actually be seen growing on
the stem of the plant. If you wanted to start new plants,
pluck those off and start new plants, they root readily.
This is a sure sign that the Boxwood needs ventilation.
It is best to prune gradually although you can cut Boxwoods
back to the bare wood and it will sprout from the stump,
they have amazing powers of regeneration. When cut back
dramatically it could shock or cause damage to the plant.
Robert instead likes to take it slowly, he takes at most
a third off at one time. It is best to practice ongoing
maintenance. Every other year, pluck the plant, opening
it up, then come along with pruners for a light surface
pruning. This may seem a slow, laborious process but it
is the only way to get the plant looking right and ensuring
it is healthy. It is understandable why people use shears
and cut across the top, this saves time, but is not a good
strategy. You can prune boxwoods at any time. Make sure
that there will not be a late frost on the new growth. In
this part of the country the best time to prune is is toward
the end of April, May or June. Robert avoids pruning in
July and August and one must be careful pruning in the fall
we don't want the plant to be tender going through the winter.
The Japanese beetle is a voracious eater in the middle of
the summer. If your flowers start to look moth eaten, they
have holes in them, particularly at the top of the plant
you probably have Japanese Beetles. They eat everything
but the skeleton and the veins of the plant. Japanese Beetles
love Roses, Hibiscus, even grapes. They're a little half
inch beetle with a green sheen. There are three ways to
deal with them. The simplest and most effective is to literally
pick them off by hand. All you have to do is go out early
in the morning, that is critical because these beetles are
docile and can't even fly until the temperature is above
80 degrees. At that point you can just knock them off the
petals or leaves into a container of soapy water. Put a
cup under the flower, tap the flower and they fall into
the cup with water. Another method is Pheromone Traps. Place
the traps at least 50 feet away from important plants so
the traps don't attract bugs to plants you're trying to
protect. The traps attract the males, taking them out of
the breeding population. The third way is with sprays and
there are a number of these. Natural plant extract like
Rotanan and Neem are effective. Chemical derivatives like
Pyrethrums and Pyrethroids also work. Acifates go into the
plant and causes it to become a bit toxic. Another option
is to choose plants that Beetles won't eat. Remember Japanese
Beetles are only going to be around for a month or so, they're
not likely to completely destroy the plant. Sometimes we
just need to learn to live with them for the short amount
of time they're bothersome.
Dr. Rick thanks Robert for showing us Barnsley Gardens and
plants that thrive during the summer. There is a lot going
on this time of year.
Link: Barnsley
Gardens
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